Tangent production kit installation


 

Mounting plate styles

170mm bottom mount.PDF                                   200mm bottom mount.PDF                                                   

To choose the proper mounting plate, simply save the PDF file above to your PC and print it out. Be sure 'Fit to page' is unchecked and measure the center distance on the paper to double check it is actual size.

  • Check the BB area for suspension linkage interference (left and right side)
  • Make sure a 32t chainring can be used in the innermost sprocket position (check chainstay clearance)
  • Modified or custom mount plates for your frame may be possible

Supported frame styles

BSA Threaded bottom bracket, 68, 73, 83 and 100mm widths

Tools Required

  • 4, 5, 8mm hex wrench
  • 10mm wrench
  • 8-notch BB removal tool, socket type similar to Park Tool BBT-18 (for installation of ISIS bearing cups)
  • BB removal tool for your existing crankset
  • Crank puller tool (recommended, for removing cranks)

Step 1

Remove existing crankset and any external bearing cups. Clean the BB area and threads. 

NOTE: The right side (chain side) is left-hand threaded, turn clockwise to loosen. Left side bearing cup is normal (CCW to loosen). 

 

Route Cycle Analyst and battery cable to the area, leave loose until final fitment.


Step 2

Hang the drive unit from the BB spindle/cups

 

Pull off the loose bearing cup from provided ISIS BB (this is the left side cup).

Insert BB spindle from the right side through the drive mount, thread bearing cup CCW several turns into your frame. You can now hang the drive unit from the spindle.

NOTE: 68mm BB widths require the use of 2 spacers ON THE LEFT SIDE between the drive mounting plates and your frame:

Tighten left and right bearing cups most of the way, leave 2-3 turns loose. The cups should easily thread most of the way by hand (unless Locktite is present).

TIP: Alternate screwing in the left and right cups 5-10 turns at a time. Walking both cups in simultaneously helps prevent binding and damage to threads. 


Step 3:

Rotate the drive unit up into the downtube or seat tube and lightly tighten the left and right bearing cups to hold the unit up.

Push the unit against the downtube and gently tighten the left and right bearing cups (tightening the cups will try to rotate the drive against the downtube).

There are three mounting options to provide a clean fit for most frames. The rubber cushion and metal strap can be used in any of the three holes.

Push the unit against the downtube and tighten the left and right bearing cups to 35ft-lbs (tightening the cups will try to rotate the drive against the downtube).

 

 

Affix the rubber padding to one of the three lengths of metal strap provided and bend around your downtube. Use the range of adjustment to create a snug fit and tighten the 5mm allen bolts to 5ft-lbs. As the drive is used and the rubber cushion compresses, this strap may need adjustment.


Step 4

Install your desired chainring in the outer position of the freewheel spider.

Most installations will not require adjusting the spider for a proper chainline. If needed, the spider may be used in any orientation on the inboard or outboard side of the spider. The arrangement shown is the standard arrangement.

TIP: There are 4 positions available for mounting the spider on the freewheel. The machined recess in the spider allows 3mm of chainline adjustment when mounted on the inner or outer face of the freewheel.

Install the crank arms and tighten to 35ft-lbs. With a new installation, the crank arm may need to be tapped with a mallet to engage the spindle far enough to allow the 8mm bolt to thread. This is more easily accomplished if prior to installing the new BB into your frame, place the BB spindle against a hard surface (concrete floor), install the crank arm and tap with a rubber mallet until the 8mm screw engages two full turns before becoming tight to prevent stripping the threads when tightened. The BB spindle can't be installed with the right crank arm in place, remove the crank arm before installing BB spindle (the crank arm will engage the BB properly after the first time tightening them together).


Step 5

Install motor chain, tension wheel and bike chain.

Wrap motor chain around inner chainring and motor freewheel. Install tension wheel into adjustment slot, push up into the motor chain, just slightly compressing the wheel. Tighten the 4mm screw to 5ft-lbs.

Wrap the bicycle chain around the outer chainring and verify proper chainline. 


Tips and tricks:

  • Use Locktite, semi-permanent blue. The housing is anodized aluminum and fasteners will tend to loosen with use. 
  • Check the 8mm crank bolts tight every 30 minutes after a new install and periodically even after they begin remaining tight. The ISIS cranks are intended to sit flush with the shoulder on the spindle as they wear in; the first time installing new cranks onto a new spindle this may not be possible- just keep checking the crank bolt tight at 35ft-lbs until the crank seats fully.
  • Check the chainring bolts tight when you maintain the chains.
  • The motor may be rotated within the housing to locate the motor wires out of the way for your setup. Don't forget to tighten the 3 clamp bolts. And use blue Locktite. 
  • Entering the Cycle Analyst setup menu stops the throttle pulse to the ESC. Upon exiting the menu, the ESC will repeat it's 3 beep code warning of the loss of throttle signal. To reset the warning, the system must be power cycled (unplug the battery for a few seconds).
  • Cycle Analyst info and menu layout: http://www.ebikes.ca/product-info/cycle-analyst-3.html
  • HV80 User Guide: http://www.castlecreations.com/support/documents/edge_hv_guide.pdf

 

 


Maintenance

The unit is supplied with a 20mL syringe of VigoGrease RE0. This is 2000-4000 miles worth of grease. Only Vigogrease RE0 should be used- this is a special Grade 00 low viscosity grease, think oil that doesn't drip. Higher viscosity greases will cause the unit to overheat very quickly. 

Every 100 miles of riding add 0.5mL of grease through the fill port on the front of the housing. The old grease will work it's way out the main bearing of the unit behind the freewheel. Wipe away the old grease during normal chain maintenance.

There is no regular maintenance on the inside of the unit, although it is completely user serviceable.